Photograph by Burçin Esin
“Hands down, there is nothing more sacred in Turkey, or maybe anywhere else in the world than the meyhane.”
-Joy, FIW founder
Oh, the meyhane.
A meyhane is a traditional Turkish establishment that’s much more than just a bar or a restaurant. It’s a place of social interaction, where friends and family gather to enjoy good food, drink, music, and most importantly each other’s company. The name itself, meyhane, comes from two Persian words: ‘mey’, meaning wine, and ‘hane‘, meaning house. Thus, it’s essentially a “house of wine.” Most do have wine to drink there, as well as beer, but if you’re committed to the real Turkish experience, you’ll be drinking rakı, an anise-flavored spirit often called “lion’s milk.” It is usually mixed with chilled water and drunk slowly, accompanied by bites of food and conversation. Rakı‘s history goes back hundreds of years, and it is considered the national drink of Turkey.
So firstly, why is there a guide on how to go to a meyhane?
Because most foreigners do it completely wrong. There’s nothing quite like the meyhane experience. Sure, you can go without reading the guide, and just treat it like a restaurant or a bar, but if you’re interested in having a cultural experience I guarantee you won’t want to do that. Even foreigners who have been living in Turkey for years can screw it up and not understand what all a meyhane entails.
The Meyhane concept
Meyhanes have been central to Turkish social life for centuries. They’ve been gathering places for poets, artists, intellectuals, and anyone else seeking good company and conversation. Even though the role of meyhanes has evolved over the years, they remain a beloved part of Turkish culture and a testament to the country’s rich history of hospitality and conviviality.
The atmosphere in a meyhane is warm, friendly, and intimate. It’s often characterized by lively conversation, laughter, and sometimes, melancholy sentimentality, especially as the night grows later and the effects of the alcohol set in. Unlike in a typical bar or restaurant, the focus in a meyhane is not just on eating and drinking, but also on savoring the overall experience, the conversation, and the companionship. You’re welcome to sit at a table for as long as you wish- there’s no rush to jump up and move on to the next place.
The food served in a meyhane is usually traditional Turkish meze, a variety of small dishes meant to be shared among the table. These can include cheese, salads, dips, and more. The meze are usually followed by fish or meat dishes, which can be served on separate plates or shared as well, depending on what you order.
Music is a key part of the meyhane experience. Traditional Turkish music, especially Fasıl (a genre that includes traditional instrumental music, classical songs, and tavern songs) is played. In some meyhanes, musicians perform live. If you’re really curious and want to get amped up for the most real meyhane experience you can get, check out our blog on meyhane music. It’s an acquired taste for most foreigners, so it’s recommended to listen with an open mind, and if you’re with Turks, it’s even better. Everything is better with a Turk.
The ritual of drinking raki is as important as the drink itself. Rakı is generally served in a narrow glass, usually poured around one-fourth (tek, meaning ‘single shot’) or nearly one-half (duble, meaning ‘double shot’) of the way up the glass, according to the drinker’s preference, (everyone eyeballs it) and then diluted with water, which turns the clear liquid into a milky white color. It’s always served chilled, often with ice, and is consumed slowly, with plenty of water and meze to balance its strong flavor and high alcohol content.
And a meyhane isn’t the only way to have the meyhane experience. Locals often opt for a cozier, more personalized, and budget-friendly version at home. While these nights can be great, they might not capture the full meyhane vibe— some might miss out when prepping food, there might not be meyhane music, and more- and for some reason, that feeling of sharing the experience with strangers around you is unique. This is definitely debatable, especially for some hosting pros, but if you’re after the true meyhane atmosphere, we recommend going out (and keep an eye out for our guides on where to find the best spots).
The Do’s and Don’ts
- Do go with a local if possible- the more locals in the local to foreigner ratio, the better
- Do make reservations, and be on the lookout for our list of our favorite meyhanes VERY soon
- Do order Rakı – start with 70cl for every 4 people, assuming you like to drink.
- Other than water, don’t order other types of drinks. (just tea is common when needing a break from raki) Other drinks like Turkish coffee or mineral water are also okay.
- Do not order individually
- Do start with at least around one meze per person (but all to be shared)
- Do keep ordering food – switch to something hot or keep ordering mezes, or both
- Do tip live musicians if they come to your table
- Please don’t take shots of rakı.
- Do leave a 10% CASH tip
- Don’t ask to split the bill between more than a few people (the establishment might offer)
- If you decide to split the bill, and locals are with you, do split the bill evenly regardless of who got what. Worst case- rounding works.
Afiyet olsun! Hope you do it right and end up loving meyhanes as much as we do.
